Adam Hunter of Cookson Precious Metals covers the essentials of
forming metal, and the tools and equipment required for this
combination of essential techniques.
Forming Metal
Forming metal is an essential part of jewellery making, and as a
process the level of skill involved is often overlooked. Forming refers
to any process that maneuvers metal into the desired shape or design.
Unlike many other skills in jewellery making forming is more a
combination of a range of techniques that change an objects shape,
rather than one particular process.
Under the heading of forming are processes such as bending, chasing,
repousse, sinking, hammering, using stamps/dies and forging. These
processes will affect the pieces shape, thickness and often the texture
of the metal being worked on.
Forming Tools
The range of jewellery tools used for forming metal is as wide and
varied as the different processes contained within the skill. The key
forming tools available are:
Mallets
The simple mallet allows the craftsman to apply direct force without
stretching or damaging the metal. The head of the mallet is softer than
the metal so as not to mark the surface.
Mandrels or Triblets
Mandrels or Triblets are used for forming shapes, and are most
associated with rings or bangles. Mandrels are available in a variety
size and shapes, and in both steel & wood.
Hammers
Hammers can complete a variety of jobs from stretching the metal,
polish/smoothing or adding texture. Jobbing hammers are ideal for
general use and metal forming. The planishing hammer is used for
smoothing, shaping and polishing metal. Riveting hammers are designed
with a small head for detailed rivet work. Raising, bossing and chasing
hammers are used in the different stages of forming.
Doming Blocks & Punches
Doming blocks & punches are the ideal way of shaping metal and
making domed, shaped pieces or hollow beads. Pieces of circular
metal/discs are place over the hollows of a doming block, and then
using punches and a hammer the metal is formed into a shape.
Steel Blocks
Steel blocks provide the ideal flat surface for working, flattening
sheet or wire or to support work as it is raised or forged, riveted or
textured.
Swage Blocks
Rather like doming blocks, Swage blocks help form metal into tubes,
curves and channels. Different blocks will allow different shapes and
sizes to be formed.
Sandbag / Grit Filled Cushion
These bags provided support whilst you work and form your piece. They help keep your work firm and in place whilst working.
Pliers
Pliers have a multitude of uses but they are the most basic tool for
holding/gripping, forming and shaping wire. Having a basic selection of
needle nose, round nose, flat nose, half round and a pair of parallel
action pliers, will give the jeweller the flexibility to complete most
jobs.
Stakes
Often used by silversmiths, the metal is placed over the stakes
(usually clamped independently into a vice) and hammered to achieve the
shape required. Various shapes can be achieved by using different
stakes.
Files
Files are essential for removing excess material, and fine tuning
and shaping your piece. The different sizes available allow the
jeweller to work large areas or at a more intricate level. To start
with buy a selection of shapes containing round, square, triangular,
half round and warding. Plus consider the cut ranging from 0 the
coarsest, to 6 the finest.
Draw Plates
Draw plates are most commonly used to reduce the size or change
shape of wire. Each plate has a series of holes through which the wire
is passed through, this then changes the size of the wire. The holes in
the plate are of decreasing size allowing you to continue draw down the
wire to the required size.
Rolling Mills
These larger machines often seen in jewellers’ workshops are ideal
to reduce the thickness of sheet, or help decorate sheet. If used with
Square and D shape sections rolling mills can be used to form or shape
wire.
This selection of forming tools & equipment allow jewellers, and
metalsmithes to create any number of shapes, textures and patterns. As
with all jewellery projects the range of forming tools jewellers have
will start with the basic i.e. pliers, hammer and perhaps a doming set,
and then expand as their projects demand.
